Grape varieties / 09/08/2015 / 2136
IT'S ALL IN THE NAME
Generally accepted name of this variety in international circles is Blauer Portugieser. In all countries of Central Europe, there are traditional local names for this variety which usually represent a customized peer in local language. Thus, Modry Portugal is common name in the Czech Republic, Portugizer is widely used in Serbia ... We can say that this variety has become collateral damage in the war for consumer protection. Namely, owing to strict implementation of consumer protection rules, some countries have lost the right to use the name of this variety that existed for centuries, primarily because of bureaucratic incompetence to deal with complicated paperwork and sometimes irrational regulations.
The best example of this is Croatia. Due to a mistake made by a clerk in the state administration, Croatia omitted Portugizac from the list of varieties and traditional names that historically exist on Croatian territory. In a subsequent attempt to correct the mistake, Portugal reacted and filed an objection that the name Portugizac may cause confusion among consumers and lead them to believe that the wine comes from Portugal. This was enough to ban the use of this term in Croatia, although Portugizac has been known under that name in Croatia since the times of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After much deliberation and attempts to correct the error, it was finally decided that the name Portugizac will be replaced by Purtugizec (name of the variety in the local dialect of Plešivica).
One can not say that the Serbian winemakers were lucky because good luck is not crucial in this matter. Simply, the team of the Serbian Ministry of Agriculture led by Darko Jaksić successfully carried out the entire reform of the Serbian wine sector and harmonization with the EU rules and thereby preserved the particularities of Serbia. And for that he deserves a lot of praise.
In Serbia, Mačkov Podrum (Tomcat's Cellar) Winery from the town of Irig (Fruška Gora, Srem wine region) contributed most to the revival of Portugizer on the Serbian wine scene and its growing popularity. Dedicated work in the vineyard, which is located at an altitude of 250 meters, and superior quality of grapes resulted in Portugizer 2014 - Mačkov Podrum, characterized by complex aromas of raspberry, blackberry and blackcurrant on the nose accompanied with subtle notes of mint and eucalyptus that give this wine appeal and lift beyond common renderings of Portugizer. In the mouth, very fruity trail full of freshness and aromas of currants and blackberries. Medium-bodied wine, alcohol 11.5%.
THE HARVEST 2015 HAS STARTED
Mačkov Podrum Winery celebrates every year the beginning of harvest. Of course, the earliest ripening variety in the vineyards owned by Mačkov Podrum Winery is Portugizer. Accompanied with "pudar", the guardian of the vineyards, and local musicians, the winery owner Sava Jojić with family members, friends of the winery and wine media symbolically started harvesting Portugizer on 29th August, 2015. This year, nature has been generous to vinegrowers in Serbia. This can be attributed to the nature's balance and universal justice, taking into account how much they suffered in 2014. We will be able to verify quality of wines already on the third Thursday in November when the first bottles of new Portugizer Svatovac will be officially opened at the central square in the city of Novi Sad."pudar" - guardian of the vineyards
Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.
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