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News / 02/06/2022 / 364

RODOSLOV FROM ŠUMADIJA PRESENTED IN OSIJEK

Announced as an exclusive tasting at this year's regional wine fair WineOS 2022 in Osijek, the vertical tasting of Rodoslov wine from Aleksandrović Winery (Vinča, Šumadija) was a rare opportunity to taste and compare Rodoslov vintages from 2006 till 2016. It's a wine that is particularly popular in Serbia on wine lists in restaurants.

Aleksandrović Winery from Vinča (near Topola, Šumadija) is well known not only in Serbia but also wider in the region. A winery that set high standards at the very beginning of the modern Serbian wine scene and managed to maintain those standards up to this day. Nowadays, Aleksandrović Winery owns 78 hectares of vineyards and a portfolio of 25 wine labels. From the very beginning, the wines were created with a distinct signature of the tandem ensemble composed of Boža Aleksandrović (winery owner) and Vladan Nikolić (oenologist). Rodoslov wine was created out of desire to produce a great wine according to the creative vision of chief oenologist Vlado Nikolić. Aleksandrović Winery produces between 250,000 and 300,000 bottles a year. If we talk about Rodoslov, there are usually between 5,000 and 7,000 bottles on the market.

Rodoslov Grand Reserve 2006 - Aleksandrović (varietal composition: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Prokupac) The first vintage of Rodoslov. From the very beginning, oenologist Vlada Nikolić intended Rodoslov to mature in oak casks for long periods of time. Therefore, he picked the winning formula: 2 years in new French oak barriques followed by another 2 years in large Slavonian oak casks and one year in a bottle before releasing the wine on the market. Fermentation for 15-17 days, maceration for 38-40 days, with the temperature hiking by one degree every second day. Already in the glass, brick brownish hue indicates that we're dealing with a well-aged wine. On the nose, a lot of tertiary aromas, tobacco, leather, dried fruits, aromas open slowly and create a harmonious, pleasant impression. In the mouth, the tannins are lush, coating the palate whilst leaving a powdery mouthfeel, just enough to make the contrast between their astringency, fine grainy structure and velvety softness captivating. This wine does not impress with its power, it is there, still present, but subdued and framed with elegance. The acidity holds up well... At a blind tasting, one could easily interpret this wine as a solid example of Sangiovese from Tuscany. I found this Rodoslov teeming with character and personality. 91/100

Rodoslov Grand Reserve 2009 - Aleksandrović (varietal composition: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc) In the vintage 2009, Prokupac was replaced by Cabernet Franc in the blend for the first time. Primarily it's because Aleksandrović Winery decided to use grapes exclusively from their own vineyards. Prokupac grapes originated from vineyards owned by subcontractors. The year 2009 was a hot year in Serbia. Wine featuring exquisite silkiness, soft on the palate, complex. Tannins ripe, polished. Excellent structure, preserved acidity. Overall impression exudes balance in every way. Wine still has plenty of ageing potential. The strength of this wine lies in its complexity, balance and restraint. Stylistically, I would compare this wine to premium flagship labels of Bordeaux. Definitely, my favourite pick at this tasting. 94/100

Rodoslov Grand Reserve 2012 - Aleksandrović - The year 2012 was even warmer than 2009. And again we witness a stylistic turn. Vlada Nikolić opted for shorter fermentation, shorter extraction with lower temperature that did not exceed 32 degrees Celsius. The goal was to get less robust tannins and structure and a wine that will mature faster and be ready for the market sooner. More robust structure, full-body, distinct fruitiness, black forest berries, sweet spices, licorice, forest floor, cedar. Stylistically, this wine is reminiscent of wines from the New World. Intensity and strength have taken precedence over elegance. 92/100

Rodoslov Grand Reserve 2013 - Aleksandrović - The year 2013 was demanding in the vineyard. Rodoslov from the vintage 2013 is stylistically similar to Rodoslov from the previous vintage. But there is a difference in the use of oak. Slightly more toasted notes come to the fore, more pronounced spicy notes, fresh tobacco. 89/100

Rodoslov Grand Reserve 2016 - Aleksandrović - Rodoslov from the vintage 2016 on the label also contains the inscription untouched. Obviously, the trend of minimum intervention wines has reached Serbia. In the case of Rodoslov 2016, fermentation started with wild yeasts and then continued with selected ones. The wine was made without cold stabilization, without filtration. The end result is a wine dominated by a fruit-forward juicy trail, smart oak, tamed power. A wine that is still on the rise and can be expected to get better with further ageing. 90+/100.

This tasting is a great example of how fast the Serbian wine scene is developing. In just one decade, Rodoslov has changed its style several times, and the oenologist has continued his search for perfection from year to year. One shouldn't seek in Rodoslov the elements of terroir, the expression of local microclimate. Rodoslov is a wine with a distinct signature of Vlado Nikolić, consciously created from the very beginning and work in the vineyard to work in the cellar with an ambition to become the great wine of Serbia.




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Tomislav Ivanović

Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.

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