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News / 05/26/2021 / 1085

SERBIAN TRAMINERS AT THE TRAMINER FESTIVAL IN ILOK

On May 22nd, 2021, the beautiful Principovac estate in the immediate vicinity of Ilok and the Croatian-Serbian border attracted numerous wine lovers and fans of Traminer variety. The organizers of the third edition of "Traminer Festival" made an effort to turn this event definitely into the regional wine event featuring this grape variety.

As part of the festival, a workshop was held at which Traminer wines from Serbia were presented. Traminac (Traminer) together with other aromatic grape varieties enjoys popularity among young wine lovers. If we talk about aromatic grape varieties, Tamjanika dominates in Serbia, but wineries from northern and central Serbia, which do not have Tamjanika in their vineyards, usually offer consumers light, fresh, aromatic Traminer wines. In recent years, winemakers have also decided to explore Traminer's versatility, so we can see resulting wines that stand out for their character, most often late harvest or wines with long skin contact.

Traminer variety owes its beginnings on the territory of present-day Serbia to the Odescalchi family, which introduced this variety in Srem province. Since then, there has been a continuity of its cultivation in our region. At the end of the 19th century (more precisely, in 1897), J. Marić in the essay called Downy Mildew listed grape varieties represented on Fruška Gora and among them, Tremin (Tramin) was also mentioned.

After the Second World War, Fruška Gora was destined in Yugoslavia as a region for white and table grape varieties. Red Traminer was one of recommended grape varieties. In the mid-1970s, Traminer vineyards on Fruška gora covered 125 hectares, which is significantly more than today's presence of Traminer in the whole of Serbia. Namely, according to the data from 2019, Traminer vineyards in Serbia spread over 69 hectares.

Quet Traminac 2019 - Fruškogorski vinogradi - The vineyards of Fruškogorski Vinogradi winery cover an area of 80 hectares on the slopes of Fruška Gora above the village of Banoštor. The northern side of Fruška Gora features the effect of "two suns", ie. the rays of sun get reflected on the surface of the Danube river, which maximizes the effect of sunshine in the vineyards nestled on the slopes above the village of Banoštor.

Traminac from Fruškogorski Vinogradi winery is an example of dry, fresh, playful Traminer with an excellent price/quality ratio. Recognizable floral-fruity aromas on the nose. The palate is dominated by freshness, accompanied with flavors of rose petal Turkish delight, white peach, tangerine, grapefruit.

Gewurztraminer 2018 - Deurić - Deurić Winery is located in Mala Remeta, on the south side of Fruška Gora. The distinctive feature of Fruška Gora lies in the fact that in a narrow strip one can find plots featuring differing characteristics. The south side of mountain is basking in the sun throughout the day and the soil is a combination of loess and limestone. Ripe fruitiness dominates the aromatic profile: ripe apricots, ripe pears, pineapple, passion fruit, lychee, rose flower, acacia flower. Pleasant, layered impression on the palate. Persistent finish.

Gewurztraminer 2019 - Virtus - An example of Serbian Traminers coming from the vineyards south of the Sava and the Danube. Traminer from Mlava region, featuring full body, oily mouthfeel. 10% of wine fermented and aged in oak barrels. The nose shows aromas of lychee, tropical fruit, rose petals, peach, honey, vanilla and ginger. The wine audience in Ilok reacted excellently to this Traminer.

Traminac 2018 - Probus Vineyards - It is considered that Veliki Radinci and Šuljamska Glavica are the exact location where the first vineyards on Fruška gora were planted  by ancient Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus. And exactly on that place nowadays are the vineyards of the new winery Probus Imperial Vineyards (Probus Carski Vinogradi). A wine that is still a challenge to find on the Serbian market since the pandemic last year slowed down the winery's plans to introduce itself to the wider wine market. In any case, a step forward in terms of Traminers from Serbia, and the wine audience in Ilok recognized that. Traminer made by natural methods, spontaneous fermentation, 6 months on the lees, the wine partly matured in the used barrels.  An impressive wine. Rich, complex aromatic profile. Aromatic profile shows no banality, but  features an abundance of aromas of tropical fruit, ripe and cooked yellow stone fruit, sweet spices, ginger.

Uncensored 2018 - Bikicki - Bikicki Winery has become well known to wine lovers from Croatia, and even before the tasting, comments and praise were heard with regard to wines that come under the Bikicki label. The village of Banoštor, Milino Brdo plot. Red Traminer wine made by the natural method, maceration for 12 days, spontaneous fermentation, natural yeasts, aging in used Serbian oak barrels. Beautiful amber golden color, complex aromatic profile dominated by aromas of dried apricot, orange peel, dried fig, Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, lush structure, multi-layered, the wine evolves gradually in the glass. Pleasant freshness in the finish. It still lacks the elegance that the previous vintage had, but further aging in the bottle will certainly bring about the same outcome.

Tri Sunca Kasna Berba 2015 - Fruškogorski Vinogradi - Late harvest, residual sugar 85 g/l. Wine that cannot be produced every year because the climatic conditions allow such wines to be made only every third or fourth year. Mature, developed aromas of peach compote, honey, dried apricots, walnuts, sweet hints of rose. Pleasant freshness. A long, delicious finish.

Makana 2016 - Bikicki - 3 days' maceration, accompanied with pouring dry Traminer over the cap, spontaneous fermentation, natural yeasts, maturing for a year in a used barrique. On the nose, lavish, noble wine. Lush aromas of sweet figs, acacia honey, orange jam, figs. On the palate, a delicious impression of honey, quince, figs, vanilla, sweet spices.

Trijumf Late Harvest 2016 - Aleksandrović - The story of Serbian Traminers takes us to Šumadija wine region. Traminac is not a common variety in the vineyards of Šumadija, but Aleksandrović Winery produces late harvest wine (when climate conditions allow) as part of its Trijumf edition of wines. Trijumf Late Harvest features precision-focused winemaking and expressiveness. Concentrated, rich impression with typical varietal aromas of wild rose, fig, spicy tones, hints of tropical fruit. Excellent balance of acidity and sweetness. And a superb wine to close this introduction to Traminers from Serbia.




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Tomislav Ivanović

Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.

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