I quote quite often my dear friend Jo Ahearne MW who said once during a discussion about differences between small family wineries and large "industrial" ones that "big players also make good wines nowadays" because the difference in technology used by small and large wine cellars is disappearing and they all strive to get the best possible quality of grapes and wine,due to demanding market unlike ever before. Even in the period of former Yugoslavia, Istrian Malvasia held a distinct position in the wine market of Serbia, and particularly Belgrade. Mainly because it was the wine that evoked memories of vacations in Istria, which was the preferred seaside destination of Belgrade's inhabitants. Istria is often called "Belgrade's nearest seaside" which can be easily reached after 6 hours' driving on the highway. In the Serbian market, Kozlović Winery has certainly become synonymous with Istrian Malvasia. However, Vina Laguna winery is making great efforts to  bring Istrian Malvasia closer to a wide circle of consumers in Serbia, especially the younger generations who are just now discovering why Istria is a promised land for admirers of Mediterranean cuisine and wines.

Vina Laguna winery operates as a part of Agrolaguna Group, which was created in 1963 following a merger of local agricultural cooperatives in Poreč. Over time, the winery has reached annual production of 5 million liters of wine whilst their vineyards cover 610 hectares of land. You probably think that this is a "heavy industry in the wine world." However, Vina Laguna winery is a practical example that proves Jo Ahearne's words at the beginning of this article. Her words are also supported by the news that Vina Laguna's wine Festigia Castello 2012  (varietal composition: 50% Merlot, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon) has won Decanter's Regional trophy for red wine under 15GBP.

I accepted the invitation to visit Vina Laguna winery with a substantial dose of curiosity. Primarily because my desire was to learn on the spot about  large system operations and about finding the right balance between the size or capacity of the winery and quality of its wines. In addition, I wanted to get better acquainted with the characteristics of the Istrian region and to understand Istrian wines. My host during this Istrian festivity in praise of wine, olives and cheese was Goran Kramarić, Agrolaguna director and his team of collaborators.

Goran Kramarić, director of Agrolaguna

The story about Istrian wines begins in the vineyards. Plots closer to the coastline are characterized by red soil i.e."Terra Rossa", while vineyards in the interior of the peninsula are planted on white soil. Vina Laguna Winery owns a total of 610 hectares of vineyards on the plots found on both red and white soils.

Our tour started from the vineyard on the plot called Bašarinka, covering 43 hectares, which are predominantly planted with Cabernet Sauvignon. Shallow, stony, skeletal soil, warm terra rossa proved to be exquisite soil for Cabernet Sauvignon. Then we arrived to the vineyards on the plot Vodopija which cover ​​5 hectares. Because of its size, this vineyard is an experimental plot, where new scientific knowledge in the field of viticulture, innovations and trials are applied. That's why wines from this plot are released in special limited series. These vineyards were planted in the period from 2004-2008. Then we visited the plot Mornarica covering ​​35 hectares. These vineyards on predominantly white soils are spread over gentle-sloping hills with good aeration. Careful selection of the best and finest Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from this plot (southern exposure)  results in premium wine Festigia Riserva Cabernet Sauvignon. Vina Laguna Winery developed the story about Istrian Cabernet Sauvignon thanks to meticulous work of oenologist Ante Gavranić, who holds the same status in Croatia like Mija Radovanović when we speak about Cabernet Sauvignon in Serbia. Ante transferred his knowledge to younger generations of oenologists in the winery Miroslav Latal, Milan Budinski and Sabina Salamun.

In the vicinity of small town of Funtana, we reached the beginning of the wine route Vina Laguna, a picturesque route passing through the vineyards which attracts numerous tourists, nature lovers and wine admirers. A 7-kilometre-long wine route intersects the largest vineyard of Vina Laguna Winery on the plot covering ​​180 hectares on terra rossa. The following varieties are planted in the vineyard: Merlot, Syrah, Teran, Croatina, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc. The first thing that comes to mind when I look at the vast vineyards all around me is the issue of timing. It seems to me that there is a constant race against time in such large plots: spraying the vines on time, picking grapes on time ... The essence of modern viticulture is to choose optimal time for each activity in the vineyard, which can be a demanding job on large plots  such as this one. I heard from my host that 50% of the vineyard is harvested mechanically, while the grapes for premium wines are harvested by hand. Beside 200 employees  of Agrolaguna, additional 200 seasonal workers are employed at harvest time. The harvest begins in late August (Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris) and in the next 40 days, the winery continues buzzing like a beehive.

After the welcome drink at the lookout point from which I could admire panoramic view of the vineyards, the host kept another surprise: hot-air ballooning over the vineyards in order to comprehend better exceptional landscape of Istria ...

















Then followed a tour of the winery in the company of oenologist Sabina Salamun. On this occasion, I heard the exclusive news that Merlot Riserva 2012 made from grapes originating from the sunniest plots will be released on the market around Christmas ... a little bit of patience ...











Poreč is a champion of Croatian tourism which attracts tourists from all over the world who flock to see Euphrasian Basilica, a UNESCO World Heritage site, streets of the old town with Mediterranean flair, small squares and fountains and beautiful beaches. And after a city tour, I had time to explore wines of Vina Laguna Winery and pick my favorites...



 Terra Rossa 2013 - Vina Laguna - (varietal composition: 50% Merlot, 30% Teran, 20% Blaufränkisch) This wine belongs to the category of affordable local every-day-drinking blends. However, this wine's quality was confirmed by this year's Decanter where Terra Rossa 2013 won silver medal. This wine will surprise you with its complexity which comes rather unexpected in this price category. The nose is distinctly fruity, with prevailing aromas of red forest fruits, currants, dark cherries. The wine is juicy, refreshing, lively pleasant acidity leads to the long finish which brings pleasant spicy notes to the fore.

Festigia Vižinada Malvasia Riserva 2013 - Vina Laguna - One of my favorite Istrian Malvasia wines. Grapes from old vines planted in 1979 at the special plot called Vižinada. So, these are genuine clones of Malvasia, once commonly found all over Istria. Complex, intense yet elegant, plenty of floral aromas of acacia, linden, white flowers with traces of peach notes on the nose. In the mouth, the wine is developed, full-bodied, with a long finish which lingers and finishes with a balanced trace of pleasant bitterness and refreshing citrus notes.

 

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