Wine of the week

Wine of the week / 07/07/2020 / 392


(Varina, Župa, Tri Morave)

The event that will surely be one of this year's highlights is the return of Gvozden Radenković to the winemaking ranks and new wine labels with his signature. The Radenković family, a well-known winemakers' family from Župa, made their name on the contemporary Serbian wine scene with wines labelled Carigrad (Constantinople) and Varina... In the meantime, Radenković Cellar has ceased to exist, but now Gvozden's expertise and experience have resurged on the Serbian wine scene under Bela Kula (White Tower) winery labels. The winery is located on the outskirts of Belgrade (in the true sense of the word,  it's an urban winery, with a great view of the New Belgrade blocks) whilst the vineyards are located on the reputed plot of Varina in Župa.

This time, Gvozden opted for a craft approach based on the "one man show" principle, because he personally dedicated himself to every phase of wine creation: from vineyards to grape processing, cellar work, conceptual label design and finally marketing. Quite enough to trust his signature on the label.

Askurdjel 2019 (varietal composition: Smederevka, Italian Riesling) leaves a fresh, youthful impression on the nose. Pleasant aromas of white flowers, citrus fruit, fresh fennel, linden. On the palate, perfectly balanced acidity leaves a long crispy, mineral trace of freshness complemented by tones of green apple, citrus, grapefruit, and a beautiful spicy finish, which gives the wine additional quality.

Rating: 87/100


Rating scale:

50-69 wines with serious flaws, unacceptable

70-79 simple wines, drinkable, possible wine flaws to a lesser extent

80-84 good, pleasant wines for everyday use

85-89 excellent, harmonious wines with clear expression of variety and / or terroir

90-94 outstanding wines

95-100 cult wines, with potential for long-term aging



Tomislav Ivanović

Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.

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