Wine of the week
Wine of the week / 09/11/2019 / 1259
(Ventoux AOC, Rhone Valley, France)
I took an opportunity during my stay in the south of France to taste rosé wines from different price categories. Of course, not all tourists who come to Provence drink wines from Chateau Minuty or Chateau D'Esclans... So at a nearby supermarket, I picked a few labels of local rosé to get an iidea what tourists who buy their wines in local supermarkets drink along the coast.
I have chosen Ventoux appellation which is otherwise known as the "coolest appellation of southern Rhone" as it is exposed to cooling winds that descend from Ventoux Mountain during the night and create high diurnal range between fresh nights and hot days. The wines of Ventoux appellation feature beautiful acidity that gives these wines particular freshness.
La Pierre du Diable Rosé 2018 Rhonéa has quite a catchy name. It's inspired by a local legend in Beaumes-De-Venise about "The Devil's Rock", a huge rock that sits on top of a nearby hill. At the foot, below this rock is the Chapel Notre Dame d'Aubune. The rock has scars on the surface that, according to legend, are the marks of a Devil's claw who tried to push the rock to destroy the chapel, but was prevented by the Virgin Mary. That rock still looks menacing, but it continues to stand still.
Varietal composition: Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan. The grapes come from different positions within the appellation: from the surrounding hills with light sandy soil to terraces on slopes dominated by sandstone and sand sediment.
The nose is rather intense, dominated by aromas of pomegranates, red orange, strawberries, citrus fruit, with hints of sulphur that spoil the overall impression. On the palate, the wine exudes freshness that one would expect from a wine coming from this appellation. However, the acidity gives nervous feel which overwhelms notes of strawberry, pomegranate, lime... For a supermarket wine that costs € 3.50, quite enough complexity and length in the finish. Unfortunately, the finish also leaves a distinct trace of bitterness that goes beyond pleasant sensations.
Rating: 82/100
Tomislav Ivanović
Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.
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