Wine of the week
Wine of the week / 08/13/2019 / 23
(Grošnica, Kragujevac, Šumadija)
Over the last few years, there has been quite a line-up of Merlots from Serbia that could easily compare to Merlot wines from world's reputed wine regions.
Sumarum 2015 from Art Wine (Šumadija, Central Serbia) is a truly stellar example that a winemaker can show wine's character and terroir equally well when the wine is made from international grape variety. Sumarum leaves no doubt that ripe grapes came from quite a hot year. We should bear in mind that the year 2015 was quite demanding in the vineyards. Apart from all the regular activities in the vineyard, vinegrowers also had to cope with vicissitudes of weather ranging from drought during August to a rainy period just before the harvest and at the same time recover the vines from all the hardships that the year 2014 had brought. For that reason, I value highly good wines from that vintage.
Very complex nose. Initial impression is captivating: aromatic profile is not dominated by jammy or limp aromas of overcooked fruit. Ageing hasn't spoilt its lush fruitiness, with plentiful aromas of black forest berries, blackberries, black currants, sour cherries. This ripe fruitiness is harmoniously complemented by hints of leather, tobacco, roasted coffee, graphite and forest soil. The wood is discreet, restrained, does not disturb the balance, just adds a subtle vanilla trail in the finish...
The mouthfeel is even more appealing: concentrated, complex, full-body ... Pleasant acidity keeps the impression of freshness and guarantees longevity (I shouldn't have rushed to open the bottle), nicely complemented by ripe, soft tannins that leave a long silky trace on the palate. Only in the finish, I feel warmth and slight burning sensation in my throat, merely to remind me once again that the summer 2015 was scorching and sun-drenched..
Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.
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