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News
News / 04/07/2020 / 4324
During my stay in Istria and tour of local wineries in early March, I had an opportunity to sample more than 30 samples of Istrian Malvazija. Definitely, Istrian Malvazija has already surpassed its reputation of a light refreshing summer wine given that Istrian winemakers have invested a great deal of energy and experience in experimenting with creation of more complex wines aged in wood and subsequently macerated Malvazijas as well. Of course, basic fresh Malvazija remains a "cash cow" to Istrian winemakers and an opportunity to sell huge quantities of Malvazija wine to thirsty tourists during the summer season. But there are more and more mature Malvazijas for more demanding wine afficionados.
We could bear witness to exactly that stylistic versatility of Malvazija during Vinart tasting in Istria. On this occasion, I singled out a few wines that impressed me greatly. In doing so, I must point out that my absolute favorite was Malvazija Anno Domini 2017 from Benvenuti Winery. But anyhow, these are all wines I would definitely love to have in my wine cellar.
Malvazija 2018 - Damjanić - Ivan Damjanić could easily be called a stickler when it comes to wine, the sort of person who does not allow anything to improvisation, he shows commitment and dedication to the smallest detail in the whole process from vineyard to a bottle. Such perfectionism is clearly evident in his entire portfolio of wines.
Malvazija which does not boast so much about flittering and freshness, but in a harmonious way combines aromatic complexity, full-body and pleasant acidity. Complex nose, aromas of grapefruit, citrus fruits, white flowers, peach, linden tea. In the mouth, flavours of yellow flowers, apricot, peach, a hint of fig, pineapple. Medium-to-full body, rounded, mature, lasting impression, salty trace in the finish.
Malvazija 2018 - Fakin - Classic expression of Malvazija. Just the way I imagine Malvazija should look. Abundance of freshness, lively acidity, playful aromatics. Minerality.
Montiron 2018 - Medea - Initially, this wine impressed me with its concentration and full body, but soon the refreshing notes of citrus and red grapefruit came to surface, accompanied with lush fruity character of pear, peach, orange peel, and acacia blossoms and freshly mown grass. hints of vanilla.
Malvazija Anno Domini 2017 - Benvenuti - A truly special wine. Anno Domini wine is made only in the best years and from grapes from vineyards planted in 1946 and 1962. Maceration for 15 days. Fermentation and sur lie aging in large wooden vessels for 12 months. Developed, rich, aged wine with preserved elegance. Lush fruity impression: ripe yellow fruit, pear, apricot, peach, honey trail, yellow flowers, orange peel. On the palate, oily, multi-layered, full body. In the finish, lingering mineral trace comes to the fore.
Malvazija Black Label 2017 - Meneghetti - Attractive, complex wine. On the nose, a combination of fruit and floral aromas, melon, apricot, tangerine, acacia flower, buttery notes and oak. Balanced impression on the palate. Creamy, rounded in the mouth, full body. Mineral finish.
Gran Malvazija 2017 - Coronica - Rising wine that has yet to reach its full potential. On the nose, a delicate herbal-spicy impression, white flowers, citrus, peach, pineapple, almond. Vibrating acids in accordance with fine minerality. The fruitiness is completely reduced, so the structure of the wine is even more pronounced.
Grimalda 2017 - Matošević - (Varietal composition: Malvazija, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc) Multi-layered, complex wine. Aromas on the nose predominantly brings forward the character of Chardonnay with a herbal-spicy twist in the finish. In the mouth, medium-to-full body, harmonious acidity, fine minerality. Quince, yellow apple, pear, basil, hay. A long, persistent finish.
Nevina 2016 - Saints Hills - (Varietal composition: Malvazija, Chardonnay) Rich, full, creamy, powerful impression. Intense aromas on the nose: peach, pineapple, tropical fruit, citrus, almond, white pepper. Light minerality.
Malvazijica 2017 - Roxanich - Maceration for 15-17 hours, native yeasts, maturing for a year and a half in stainless steel tanks. Golden yellow color, subtle aromas. I like this wine's mouthfeel. Soft texture, fullness and rich taste. Malvazija is still recognizable here, but it feels fuller, more intense, more mature. Pear, yellow apple, mango, citrus, honey note.
Malvazija Selection 2017 - Kozlović - In Belgrade, Kozlović has built a reputation to the extent that consumers perceive his wine as flagship Malvazija. Malvazija Selection is an upgraded expression of his basic Malvazija, the difference being that it is made from grapes from selected positions in the vineyard and with an additional year of ageing prior to release on the market. A wine I would love to drink every day. Kozlović's clearly recognizable precision combined with varietal recognition, fullness of taste and layered complexity, minerality and salty finish. Peach, citrus fruits, spicy tones...
Tomislav Ivanović
Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.
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