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News
News / 06/20/2015 / 2694
The history of winemaking in Župa (South Serbia) is inextricably linked to Prokupac grape variety which is usually referred to as "The King of Župa". Nowadays this variety is undergoing its renaissance, but just a few decades ago its reputation and prospects for the future were gloomy ... Unlike Prokupac, Tamjanika (local clone of Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains) has never lost its status. Discreet, elegant, always survived quietly and resisted the collapse of wine culture in the era of socialism. Unlike Bulgaria, Romania and other countries in the region, Serbia's Tamjanika wine has always been bone-dry. This tradition has persisted for centuries, and nowadays it has entrenched deeper its dry character.
Both Prokupac and Tamjanika from Župa region have met their moment of glory in the present-day awakened wine culture of Serbia. However, the wine audience is not too harsh and demanding when it comes to Tamjanika. It is expected just to be bone-dry, light, refreshing, floral, without high alcohol ... and chilled well. I would say that Tamjanika resembles Agatha Christie's books that are intriguing and easy to read, always fashionable and indispensable in every beach bag.
For that reason, Budimir Winery from Aleksandrovac (Župa, South Serbia) decided to invite selected representatives of Serbian wine media for a vertical tasting of Tamjanika Budimir and thus contribute to a better understanding of local varieties whose maximum and potential are just being discovered. And I would say that it was a great opportunity to assess Tamjanika's capacity to deviate from conventional rendering of this variety.
Tamjanika Budimir 2013 - Budimir Winery - wine that is still unavailable on the market ( tank sample). The nose is clean, full of freshness, with intricate floral notes and aromas of fresh muscat grapes. Medium-to-short body. In the finish, pleasant bitterness with a delicate citrus trail.
Tamjanika Budimir 2012 - Budimir Winery - Currently on the market, the nose is more complex than in the previous wine, floral aromas constantly evolving in layers, with the sway of citrus notes, peach, lemon balm. Tamjanika with a distinct character, fine minerality, warm impression, medium-bodied, prevailing fruity notes, especially citrus in the mouth. Balanced acidity.
Tamjanika Budimir 2011 - Budimir Winery - moderate intensity on the nose, floral notes emerge under the fruity aromas of citrus, grapefruit, peach, tropical fruit. Acidity is more vibrant than in Tamjanika 2012 and nicely complements distinct minerality of this wine. Not so much warmth and sunshine as in previous Tamjanika (I wonder whether it can be attributed to the effect of microclimate in Župa and specific microlocation of the vineyard or something else given the fact that the year 2011 was generally warm and dry in Serbia). Medium-bodied. In the finish, notes of citrus and acidity wash down pleasant bitterness and convert it into clean dry mineral trace.
Tamjanika Budimir 2010 - Budimir Winery - and here comes the serious contender for the star of the evening. On the nose, ripe, complex. Fruity aromas prevail whilst floral notes subtly reveal the wine's Muscat character. However, mild petroleum note complements the overall impression and gives the wine seriousness. Medium-bodied. Acidity still vibrant, contributes to wine's freshness and liveliness that together with complex aromas forms well-rounded wine. In the finish, there is a delicate note of almond, accompanied by pleasant bitterness. Wine in excellent condition. It's a wine to look out how it will develop further.
Tamjanika Budimir 2009 - Budimir Winery - We're still on the trail of a mature representative of Tamjanika from Župa. Still alive, warm, full of freshness. In this wine minerality is more strongly accentuated than in the previous one. Rounded, harmonious, serious. An indication that we still haven't explored all the faces of Tamjanika and an encouragement for Budimir Winery to continue reflecting along this line.
Tomislav Ivanović
Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.
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