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Events
Events / 04/28/2018 / 1597
Um, the start of a workday with champagne. Few jobs can be described as an oportunity to start the day with Champagne. But, this is possible in Düsseldorf, at ProWein wine fair... The first stop is Champagne Lounge, a separate part of the hall where Champagne producers are grouped, both prominent big Champagne houses and small independent winemakers. It's exactly among these small family wineries that one should look for wines with excellent price/quality ratio.
Piot Sevillano Winery continues a long tradition of winemaking that goes 10 generations back in history. Nowadays, the winery cultivates 8 hectares of vineyards in Vincelles (Marne), on a soil composed of a combination of clay and chalk. The following varieties are found in the vineyards: 70% Pinot Meunier, 15% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir. To my great satisfaction, the owners Christine and Vincent presented their wine portfolio. In the vineyard, they strive to follow principles of environmentally friendly production: minimizing interventions in the vineyard, minimizing the use of herbicides and insecticides, using only organic fertilizers, rainwatering, conserving biodiversity, etc.
Champagne Piot Sevillano - Indiscrète 2014 Coteaux Champenois (varietal composition: 100% Pinot Meunier) This wine demonstrates the change that young winemakers brought to Champagne with regard to Pinot Meunier. Once thought that it could give satisfactory results only in blends, this variety has become the focus of a new generation of winemakers nevertheless who decided to explore fully its potential. Limited series of 400 bottles. The nose is quite intense, aromatic with prevailing aromas of yellow apple, citrus, vanilla. In the mouth, the aromatic profile evolves from yellow apple, pear, quince to spicy hints, primarily mint and basil. A long mineral trace lingers in the finish.
Champagne Piot Sevillano - Blanc de Blancs Rebelle (varietal composition: 100% Chardonnay) The structure in the mouth and a rounded impression reveal Chardonnay in a glass. Rich, multi-layered wine. A complex aromatic profile: persistent fruity aromas of mirabelle prune, grapefruit, citrus with subtle orange blossom hints, vanilla, breadcrumb, butter. Soft mouthfeel. In the finish, there is a mild toasted trail. Sophisticated!
Champagne Piot Sevillano - Provocante (varietal composition: 100% Pinot Meunier) Again Champagne made of Pinot Meunier is poured in the glass. The nose is quite fruity, primarily aromas of William's pear, peach, quince, apricot. On the palate, the wine teems with freshness and minerality. The flavour profile in the mouth shows even more complexity. In addition to flavours of peach and pear, there are also some almond hints, breadcrumbs. In the finish, there is a fine salty trail.
In addition to small independent winemakers, one should not miss well-established Champagne houses.
Champagne Charles Heidsieck 2006 Brut Millesime - (varietal composition: 59% Pinot Noir, 41% Chardonnay) At the stand, I learned that the year 2006 in Champagne was quite demanding: extremely hot summer followed by heavy rain during August raising fears that grapes would not ripen sufficiently. Fortunately, September brought sunny, warm days and the harvest was successfully brought to an end. Already on the nose, one can detect features of harvest 2006. Lush, multi-layered profile, intense aromas of white peach, apricot, mango with floral notes and hints of date. The palate shows salty impression in combination with silky texture. Rich, buttery mouthfeel, well-balanced lively acidity. If this wine spoke the language of art, its classical beauty would be best described by Ancient Greek sculptures.
Champagne Charles Heidsieck "Blanc des Millénaires" 2004 - When I tasted this wine, I immediately thought it didn't make sense tasting anything else afterwards. A grand wine that has everything: patina, concentration you would otherwise find in Burgundy wine, harmony, minerality and intensity of aromas. Vinification is done exclusively in stainless steel tanks. Seductive aromas on the nose, fully developed and complex: lemon, apple flower, butter, almonds, fresh tobacco leaf, roasted coffee. In the mouth, compact, structured, exciting... Lush aromas of citrus, butter, baked apples, dry figs, cherries, white truffles. In the finish, there is a trace of almonds and nuts. The best wine I have tasted so far at this year's ProWein.
Then I needed a short break. Afterwards, back to the Balkans. I visited the stand of Greek wineries.
Deka X 2009 - Oenogenesis - (varietal composition: 50% Merlot, 50% Xinomavro) The wine aged for 18 months in oak barrels. Xinomavro is definitely one of my favourite grape varieties. With so much character and identity, this grape can be easily recognized in any blend. On the nose, spicy hints of liquorice, aniseed, cinnamon underlined with aromas of dry figs, leather, sun-dried tomatoes, oak. The palate shows plentiful tannins, ripe, smooth. A complex flavour profile: dark cherry, plum, hazelnut, sun-dried tomato, black olive, vanilla. The finish comes with a long intense trail of dried fruit.
Verdone Offida Pecorino 2016 - Tenuta Seghetti Panichi - (varietal composition: 100% Pecorino) This example of Pecorino was truly enjoyable. This aromatic variety that can be found in the vineyards of Marche and Abruzzo is gaining popularity even beyond the borders of Italy. Nose is recognizable, aromatic, aromas of tropical fruit, banana, citrus, orange blossom. In the mouth soft, well-balanced despite vibrant acidity. Flavours of elderberry flowers, tropical fruit, green apple, pineapple accompanied with gentle minerality dominate the palate.
And as the curtain has been slowly drawn at this year's ProWein, my tasting notes are full of newly-discovered wine jewels... To be continued next year ... See you at ProWein 2019.
(27.04.2018)
Tomislav Ivanović
Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.
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BIWC 2025 - NOVA ERA ZA BALKANSKA VINA
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POČINJE WINEOS 2025 U OSIJEKU
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ŽUPSKI KARAVAN PROKUPCA 2024
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Winner MILLESIMA BLOG AWARD 2016
Pobednik MILLESIMA BLOG AWARD 2016
VINO & FINO wine personality of the year 2016
VINO & FINO vinska ličnost godine 2016
