Vinopedia

Events / 03/09/2016 / 1988

#WINELOVER ODYSSEY

February is traditionally a month of wine festivities. Wine professionals of Eastern Europe (relying on the Orthodox Christian tradition) celebrate the Day of Saint Tryphon, the Patron Saint of vineyards and winemakers. Traditionally, winemakers visit their vineyards, do ritual pruning of the vines and chant prayers to protect vineyards from adverse weather conditions in the coming year. #WINELOVER CELEBRATION OF SAINT TRYPHON'S DAY Owing to #winelover organization, the celebration of Saint Tryphon's Day spread across the borders of Eastern Europe. Coincidentally or not, but #winelover organization that brings together more than 20,000 wine lovers from around the world, including a large number of experts, bloggers, wine journalists, enologists, winemakers, and even holders of the title of Master of Wine, was established on February 14th. Thus, Saint Tryphon became the patron saint of this organization.

Saint Tryphon The month of February is of utmost importance in the calendar of each # winelover community member. Winelovers assemble then in some wine region to celebrate the anniversary of #winelover organization and get acquainted with wine tradition of the region. This year, #winelover organization celebrated its birthday in Jerez (Spain) and Athens (Greece). Vinopedia continues the tradition of participating in #winelover celebrations: having taken part in earlier #winelover anniversary celebrations in the province of Friuli (Italy) and in Bucharest (Romania), we flew southwards this year to join celebration in Athens. This also gave us an opportunity to explore the wine scene of Greece, starting from the best wine bars and wine shops of Athens and continuing with visits to wine regions and learning about the wines of Macedonia, Attica, the Peloponnese and other regions of Greece. What a pleasure to share wine experiences with wine bloggers, sommeliers, wine journalists and wine lovers from around the world, from Guatemala, the United States, Canada and Brazil, as well as from Italy, Turkey, Portugal, Sweden, Austria, Greece, Germany, France, Belgium, Poland, Hungary and Romania.

© Jürgen Schmücking For majority of tourists who flock to Athens from around the world every year, the main landmarks are the Acropolis that proudly dominates the panorama of the city and defies centuries and millennia, and other monuments of ancient Greek culture. However, Serbian tourists visit Athens with a feeling of respect and brotherly love between Serbian and Greek people ... Simply, in the period of hardships during the NATO bombing in 1999, friendly support and words of encouragement sent out from concerts at Syntagma Square (as well as from Thessaloniki and many other towns in Greece) were a message for many Serbs that friends stay together through thick and thin. It's virtually impossible to find someone in Belgrade who would feel indifferent while listening to words of famous Mikis Theodorakis at the concert in Athens while NATO bombs were falling over Belgrade and while every word of love, support and genuine friendship was so precious to us. For that reason, Greek wines contain also genuine emotional symbolism, memories of a brotherly Mediterranean country, memories of numerous Greek friends and memories of great summer holidays on the blue Mediterranean. My visit to Athens was also an opportunity to show a fraction of the Serbian wine mosaic to our fellow winelovers from Greece and around the world.

Prokupac and Morava in Athens WINES OF ATHENS Until recently, the city of Vienna boasted that it was the only capital city in Europe with vineyards within city limits. However, due to the fact that the borders of wine regions in Europe continue to expand, and this is especially true in the Balkans and Eastern Europe, other capitals with vineyards have emerged. Beside Vienna, Athens and Belgrade have now earned the title of vine-growing capital... Wineries in the hinterland of Athens benefit from their location within close proximity of the huge market given that hundreds of restaurants and taverns in the capital offer local wines. The Association called Wines of Athens brings together wineries which are located on the outskirts of Athens and constitute wine routes of Athens. Wineries are primarily focused on affirmation of wines made from local Savatiano grapes. It is the most common grape in the Greek vineyards which is also used for production of traditional Retzina. Savatiano is somewhat underrated variety of Greece because it was once used to mass-produce cheap table wine. However, winemakers assembled in the association Wines of Athens are trying to show all the features of this variety, making wine from grapes originating from old vineyards located on colder plots, with controlled yield. During my stay in Athens, I had an opportunity to get acquainted with the wines and wineries of Attica and choose my favorites among the white wines of Attica.

PAPAGIANNAKOS WINERY - The third generation of the family Papagiannakos launched the project of constructing a modern winery in 2002. The first wines were released on the market in 2009. Kalogeri Malagouzia 2015 - Papagiannakos Winery (varietal composition: 100% Malagouzia) Grapes used for production of this wine originate from a young vineyard covering the surface of 4 hectares on limestone soil at an altitude of 100 meters above sea level. The wine was bottled in December 2015. Unlike Malagouzia of Northern Greece which features more Sauvignon-like character, Malagouzia of Attica bears more resembles to Riesling, with prevailing fruity aromas and pleasant minerality. The nose is dominated by aromas of peach, tropical fruit, floral notes. In the mouth, distinct minerality and opulent fruity notes of pear, apple, peach. Pleasant finish.

Savatiano 2011 - Papagiannakos Winery (varietal composition: 100% Savatiano) Wine made from grapes originating from 50-year-old vineyards. An example of wine that contradicts the view that Savatiano produces uninteresting wines. Mature wine, superb complexity. Abundance of fruit flavors of pear, quince, yellow flowers. In the mouth the wine leaves juicy trace, medium-to-full bodied wine, complemented by complex flavours of peach, yellow apple, lychee, quince. ANASTASIA FRAGOU WINERY - The winery was founded in 1986 by Constantine Frangos with an idea to produce affordable wines in large quantities. The market strategy changed in 1999, when Constantine's daughter Anastasia Fragou took over the winery operations. She modernized technology and committed herself to production of high-quality wines. Over time, the winery expanded vineyard area to 14 hectares. Neilis 2015 - Anastasia Fragou (varietal composition: 100% Malagouzia) Elegant, unobtrusive wine. The nose is complex, dominated by fruity and floral aromas, especially apple, pear, peach with discreet herbal notes. On the palate, the wine leaves a long trail of mineral freshness. Notes of peach and apple blend into a pleasant finish.

© Ted Lelekas KOKOTOS WINERY - 35 years ago, George and Anna Kokotos planted 7 hectares of vineyards at an altitude of 450 meters in Stamata. Predominantly international grape varieties were planted: Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Given that today's market has turned its attention to indigenous varieties, Kokotos Winery is also buying local grapes Savatiano and Roditis from subcontractors and produce wine. Chardonnay (Barrel fermented) 2014 - Ktima Kokotou - When I tasted this wine, my first thought was that this Chardonnay would definitely have its army of loyal followers in Serbia. Very skillful use of French oak, 30% new barrels ... 13 days' fermentation in French oak barrels. 6 months' ageing in French oak barrels. The wine has preserved distinct fruitiness and flavours of mango, melon, peach, pear, pineapple ... Beautiful buttery texture is complemented with refined notes originating from the barrel. Full-bodied wine, long finish.

Ampeli sto Perdika (Partridge among the vines) 2015 - Ktima Kokotou - (varietal composition: 100% Assyrtiko) Wine with lots of character: medium-to-full -bodied wine, crisp refreshing acidity, pronounced minerality and delicate notes of white flowers and citrus on the nose. In the mouth, this layer of minerality opens into expressive aromatic complex dominated by notes of citrus and grapefruit. AMPELONES MARKOU (Markou Vineyards) - Markou brothers founded in 1983 a modern winery in Mesogeas with an ambition to continue more than 150 years of family tradition. The winery owns 200 hectares of vineyards in Mesogeas (Attica) and Nemea (Peloponnese). Savatiano 2015 - Ampelones Markou - The nose is fruity, opulent, clean, fresh aromas of pear, apples, peach, banana. On the palate, the wine goes along the same line, with a discreet touch of citrus. Overall, the wine leaves a pleasant savoury impression in the mouth. Medium-to-long finish. Savatiano 2014 - Ampelones Markou - Savatiano from vintage 2014 has a characteristic minerality and salinity, which gives it a somewhat different identity. The wine is complex, with prevailing aromas similar to the previous wine: yellow fruits, apricot, peach, grapefruit, lemon. When paired with mineral impression and lively acidity, which are not typical feature of this variety, we get an exciting wine which you will surely enjoy. Savatiano 2013 - Ampelones Markou - It really is a great opportunity to get well acquainted with Savatiano variety owing to the vertical tasting of Savatiano wines from this winery. Savatiano 2013 acts calmly on the nose, leaves subdued impression but retains playful aromas. Riesling-like character, ripe fruit aromas, apple, quince, pear ... Pleasant acidity adds to this wine's spark. A trace of discreet bitterness in the finish. Savatiano 2014 Fume - Ampelones Markou - A different identity of Savatiano influended by ageing in toasted barrels. The nose is dominated by rich aromas of smoke, toasted bread, butter. The wine has creamy, buttery feel in the mouth, mild acidity, well balanced. Long pleasant finish. It's a wine that craves for food ... Savatiano 1998 Fume - Ampelones Markou - A real treat ... Aged Savatiano, toasted barrel ... Rich, developed aromas of candied fruit, orange, grapefruit, quince. Divine!

MYLONAS WINERY - Wines from Mylonas Winery were presented to me by Stamatis Mylonas. An old acquaintance of mine and a good wine friend who couldn't conceal his satisfaction that I made the promise and finally visited the cradle of the wines of Attica. Mylonas Winery owns 12 hectares of vineyards.

wine friends ... with Stamatis Mylonas Savatiano 2015 - Mylonas Winery - The nose is dominated by extremely fruity aromas of peach, pear, grapefruit, citrus. In the mouth, the wine consistently follows the same aromatic profile. Beautiful refreshing acidity. Medium-bodied wine. Savatiano 2014 - Mylonas Winery - Easily detectable more developed aromas on the nose than in the previous wine. Ripe fruit flavors dominate the mouth, prevailingly peach, pineapple, apple, lemon. The fruitiness is nicely complemented by notes of herbs, chamomile, mint. Pleasant acidity, fruity finish. Savatiano 2012 - Mylonas Winery - Ripe lush impression on the nose. The wine opens slowly in layers ... Quince compote, apple, peach, citrus fruits ... In the mouth, the wine is complex, expressive, fine acidity and a touch of minerality linger in the finish.

Meeting with winemakers of Attica whose enthusiasm, dedication and hard work are redefining identity and reputation of the entire region was an important lesson about cooperation, about joint promotion of high quality work aimed at improving the reputation of Savatiano and other local varieties ... And certainly it was a brilliant opportunity to meet wine friends and raise a glass of wine together.

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Tomislav Ivanović

Awarded wine writer, wine critic and contributor to selected wine magazines. WSET3-certified author and editor-in-chief of www.vinopedia.rs. Member of Vojvodina Sommelier Association. Juror in national and international wine competitions. Lecturing about wines of Serbia and the Balkans. Local partner of Wine Mosaic organization. Co-founder of International Prokupac Day.

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